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The Valley of the Kings is both a colorful and an accurate description of this region. For it was here, along the banks of this silky river that the chateaus and country homes of the nobility were located. Today, those Chateaus, and the rich History they were part of, remain. And most importantly, the atmosphere, the languid pace of river life beckons. Waiting to be "tasted."
If you start from the city of Orleans Keeping to "le rive gauche" (the left bank) and ambling (you weren't in a hurry, right?) in the direction of Saumur, almost exactly halfway between Saumur and Chinon is an exquisite multi-facted treasure. The storybook village of Candes St. Martin. History. Culture. Gourmet food and wine. Natural beauty. Located right on the Loire. Candes St.Martin is not a "must see." It's an absolute -"must experience."
The best, and most logical place to begin, is the 12th century church. The"Collegiale du St. Martin." It is here,that St. Martin, a former Roman legionnaire,and non-denominational traveling evangeleist is buried. His incredible history, too long to recount here,can be found inside his last resting place.
Next to the church, and I mean 10 paces away in the church square, is one of the finest, and best kept secrets of French gastronomy (that's a 1o dollar word for "good grub") is Le Auberge de la Route D'Or. ("Auberge on the Road of Gold.") Here, Master Chef Gerard Parisis amazes and delights with original creations drawn from the fresh and exceptional products of the region. His wine list is particularly noteworthy - as it's composed almost exclusively of local and regional wines. Quality vintages, hand harvested, and chemical free. Dining "Il fresco" in his courtyard, with the church towering above, tickled by soft Loire breezes, should definitely be on your to do before I die list.
Christopher Strong is the Creator/Director/Host of the Lifestyle/Adventure TV Series - "Bicycle Gourmet's Treasures of France", and author of "Gliding to the Bonheur." His behind the scenes story of the "Bicycle Gourmet experience."
Share more of his adventures at - http://www.bicyclegourmet.com
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